Yes, you can get a credit card with a 600 score, but your options are limited to secured cards and subprime unsecured cards
A 600 credit score falls into the "fair" range for most scoring models. Banks and card issuers do issue cards to people in this range, but they treat you as higher-risk. You will not may have access to for premium cards with travel rewards or sign-up bonuses. Instead, you will see secured cards (which require a cash deposit) and unsecured cards designed for people rebuilding credit, often with annual fees and higher interest rates.
The cards available to you serve a specific purpose: they report your payment activity to the three major credit bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — so that on-time payments gradually raise your score. This is how secured cards work as a rebuilding tool, even though the deposit itself does not improve your score. Your job is to use the card responsibly and let the payment history do the work.
Key Takeaways
- Secured cards require a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) that becomes your credit limit, and most issuers will convert you to an unsecured card after 7 to 18 months of on-time payments.
- Unsecured cards for fair credit typically charge annual fees between $0 and $99 and APRs between 18% and 29%, depending on the issuer and your exact score.
- Your 600 score alone does not disqualify you; issuers also look at income, recent late payments, and how much debt you already carry.
- Applying for multiple cards in a short time can lower your score further, so research thoroughly before submitting applications.
Secured cards: how the deposit works and when you get it back
A secured credit card requires you to place a cash deposit with the issuer. That deposit becomes your credit limit. If you deposit $500, you get a $500 limit. You then use the card like any other card, pay the bill each month, and the deposit stays in a separate account — it is not touched unless you default.
The deposit is not a fee. You own it and can reclaim it, but only after the issuer converts your account to an unsecured card or you close the account. Most issuers convert secured accounts to unsecured after 7 to 18 months of on-time payments. Some require you to request conversion; others do it automatically. Check the card's terms before you apply to see what the issuer's conversion timeline is and whether you have to ask for it or if it happens without action on your part.
Secured cards still charge interest on balances you carry month to month, and many charge annual fees ($0 to $95 depending on the card). The deposit is separate from both. Your goal is to use the card, pay on time, keep your balance low, and let the issuer see you as lower-risk so they convert you. Once conversion happens, your deposit is returned in full.
Unsecured cards for fair credit: what to expect on fees and rates
Some issuers offer unsecured cards to people with 600 scores — cards that do not require a deposit. These cards come with trade-offs. Annual fees range from $0 to $99. APRs (the interest rate on balances you carry) typically fall between 18% and 29%, which is much higher than cards for people with good or excellent credit.
A few unsecured cards in this category offer no annual fee, but they are rare and usually come with a higher APR to compensate. Most cards in the fair-credit range charge both an annual fee and a high APR. Before you apply, calculate whether the annual fee is worth it for your situation — if you plan to pay your balance in full each month, the APR does not matter, but the annual fee does. If you carry a balance, both the fee and the rate will cost you money.
Unsecured cards do report to all three bureaus, so they build your credit history the same way secured cards do. The main difference is that you do not need to put down a deposit upfront, which makes approval less certain but faster if you are approved.
What issuers look at beyond your credit score
Your 600 score is one data point. Issuers also review your income, employment status, and recent payment history. A 600 score with no late payments in the past 12 months looks better than a 600 score with a late payment from three months ago. Similarly, a higher income can offset a lower score. The issuer is trying to predict whether you will pay the bill, and your score is only part of that picture.
Issuers also check how much debt you already carry relative to your income. If you have maxed-out credit cards or high balances, you may be denied even with a 600 score. Conversely, if you have low balances and steady income, you may be approved despite the score. This is called your debt-to-income ratio, and it matters as much as your credit score in many cases.
Hard inquiries — the checks issuers run when you apply — also lower your score by a few points each. Multiple applications in a short period can compound this damage. Space out applications by at least two weeks, and apply only to cards you genuinely want. Each inquiry stays on your report for two years but stops affecting your score after about three to six months.
Comparing secured vs. unsecured for your situation
| Feature | Secured Card | Unsecured Card |
|---|---|---|
| Deposit required | Yes, $200–$2,500 | No |
| Annual fee | $0–$95 | $0–$99 |
| APR range | 18%–25% | 18%–29% |
| Conversion timeline | 7–18 months (if on-time) | N/A |
| Best for | People with very limited credit history or recent damage | People who want to avoid a deposit or need a card immediately |
Choose a secured card if you have cash available and want the clearest path to conversion. The deposit acts as insurance for the issuer, so approval is more likely even with a 600 score. Choose an unsecured card if you do not have cash to deposit or want to avoid the deposit altogether, but understand that approval is less certain and the APR may be higher.
If you are torn between the two, consider your recent credit history. If you have had a late payment or collection account in the past year, a secured card is the safer choice because approval odds are higher. If your 600 score is from old damage and your recent payments have been on time, an unsecured card may work.
Steps to improve your chances of approval
Before you apply, pull your credit report from AnnualCreditReport.com, the only site authorized by federal law to provide free reports. Look for errors — incorrect late payments, accounts you did not open, or wrong balances. Dispute any errors with the bureau directly; corrections can raise your score before you apply. This step takes time (disputes can take 30 to 45 days), so do it early if you are not in a rush.
If you have recent late payments, wait at least 30 days after the most recent one before applying. A late payment from last week will hurt more than one from three months ago. If you carry high balances on existing cards, pay them down before applying. Issuers look at your credit utilization (how much of your available credit you are using), and lower utilization improves your odds. Even paying down balances by 20 to 30 percent can make a difference.
If you have no credit history at all — no existing cards, loans, or accounts — a secured card is your only realistic option. Unsecured cards for fair credit still require some credit history to evaluate. If this is your situation, a secured card is the standard first step and is designed exactly for this scenario.
What happens after approval
Once approved, use the card for small, regular purchases — a subscription, gas, groceries — and pay the full balance each month. This shows the issuer you can manage credit responsibly. Do not max out the card or carry a balance to build credit faster; that is a myth. Carrying a balance costs you money in interest and does not build credit any faster than paying in full.
After 7 to 18 months of on-time payments, contact the issuer or wait for them to automatically convert your account. When conversion happens, your deposit is returned to you. At that point, you can move to a better card with lower fees and rates, or keep the converted card as part of your credit mix. Keeping it open (even unused) helps your credit score because it maintains your available credit and your account history length.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will applying for a card hurt my 600 score?
Yes, each application triggers a hard inquiry that lowers your score by a few points, usually 5 to 10. Multiple applications in a short time compound the damage. However, the impact fades after three to six months, and new on-time payments will raise your score faster than the inquiry lowered it.
Can I get approved for a card with a 600 score and no income?
Most issuers require some form of income — employment, Social Security, disability benefits, or investment income. A few cards accept household income (income from a spouse or partner), but you will need to list it on the application. No income at all makes approval unlikely.
What is the difference between a hard inquiry and a soft inquiry?
A hard inquiry (from a credit card or loan application) lowers your score. A soft inquiry (from a bank checking your account, or from you checking your own score) does not. Only hard inquiries count toward approval decisions and score impact.
If I get denied, how long should I wait before applying again?
Wait at least 30 to 60 days. Use that time to improve the factors that led to denial — pay down balances, correct errors on your report, or build more income documentation. Applying again immediately will only add another hard inquiry without addressing the underlying issue.
Does a secured card deposit count as savings for other purposes?
No. The deposit is held by the card issuer in a separate account and does not count toward your savings, emergency fund, or assets for loan applications. It is locked until you close the account or convert to unsecured.